On va faire comment?

10 August 2013

There are so many things running through my mind right now, and so I'm not entirely sure what direction this blog post is going to go in. On va faire comment?

With electricity being out again (we've had a total of maybe 24 hours of light combined in the past 6 days,) I'm not entirely sure how long my computer battery is going to last. Supposedly by 2015 my whole region can expect to have electricity 24 hours a day, which'll definitely allow more room for stability, reliability, and development, but for me personally, I'm glad to have lived somewhere where part of the challenge of survival meant having to be adaptable. So, as we speak, I'm typing by the light of one single candle and weighing the benefits of washing my dishes tonight versus the morning (avoiding the ants and mice V. having dishes be clean because I'll be able to actually see them while I wash.) Luckily, this should hopefully not be a problem anymore since I think I've knicked my mouse problem thanks to the packets of scary Chinese rat poison, which was surprisingly difficult to find considering that the men that sell it are possibly the most obnoxious in town: they walk around the market with dead mice on strings, blowing whistles, and talking on megaphones.

The time remaining for me in Cameroon is winding down, but I am trying to refuse to talk about that. It's getting too hard to have the constant conversation of "don't leave, renew your contract, stay and marry a Cameroonian man, we'll miss you too much!" everyday. I am being pulled in two very separate directions, and even though I am positive that I'm leaving in November, it's still difficult to know that my choice means leaving the family and friends I've created for myself here. Beyond all odds, it means leaving the comfort I've come to find here in the unpredictability, the slow pace of life, and the rawness of the Cameroonian culture. I've started to sell off my goods, and I've started a pile of things in my spare room that are definitely returning to America with me. My job research has begun. In a week and a half, I'll have my official end of service date. It's the beginning of the end. Weird.

On a completely lighter note, Ramadan has finished! This past Thursday was the holiday marking the end, and I was lucky enough to have another PCV in town visiting, so it was interesting to get to see the whole Ramadan experience through the eyes of someone in a very, very Christian community. Ramadan is different from Christian holidays since the Islamic calendar is shorter and based on the moon. Whereas Christmas is ALWAYS December 25, Ramadan could fall in any month depending on the year. Likewise, the holiday could happen between 28-31 days after the fast began depending on what day the moon returns (the season starts and ends based on the new moon.) This time around the moon was sighted on the 7th at 9pm in Fouman, a town in the West region, but because my friend forgot to call and let me know, I woke up unsure whether or not to get ready for the celebration or not--definitely a huge difference from any holiday I'd grown up with. After texting around to figure out what was going on, I ended up getting dressed in the new clothes I got made for the celebration, went to the morning prayers, and then started the long day of 6 meals. Fete de Ramadan is a marathan, not a sprint; imagine Thanksgiving, but taking place in multiple different houses and over a 10 hour time period. Beef, rice, spagetti, chicken, eggs, cabbage dishes, beignets, soda, tea, etc. To borrow a Pidgin English phrase: my belly done flop.

I've written intermittently about the pisciculture project, and it's crazy that that's already coming to a close. We've gotten the ponds all built and the first two species of fish installed; the other two species should be installed next month. Things have gone super smoothly so far, minus a minor conflict with a police officer neighbor who raises ducks as poultry but refuses to keep them caged or "corraled" on his property since he doesn't believe that ducks eat fish. But, I think we've finally gotten that problem resolved by putting the children on fish guardian/duck scaring duty when they're not going around town searching for the types of refuse that fish love to eat (ask for more details if you'd like, but know that the answer isn't a pretty one.) Right now, we're working on planting a garden of Moringa, watermelon, squash, okra, basil, plantains, bananas, and manioc around the ponds so that we'll have more food to sell in the market and food available on premises to feed the fish with. Next month, we'll start teaching classes to the kids on HIV/AIDS, STDs, prevention methods, and "life skills," but in the moment we're just starting to figure out what exactly these lessons are going to entail.

The last big thing I've been working on is preparation for the HIV/AIDS education murals that we'll be painting at the end of the month. A big group of volunteers from the region are going to come out and help paint, so between COS conference the 3rd week of August and the mural the 4th week, these next few weeks of life are going to be Petite Amerique (Little America.)

On that note, take care everyone!

The Rama-Diary

Day 1:

After a bout of food poisoning and a false-start of fasting (one ethnic group, the Bamouns, apparently frequently starts fasting a day before everyone else,) Ramadan finally started for real today. It's 3pm, and to distract myself from the fact that I still have a few hours to go before I can eat dinner and guzzle down some water, I've decided to start writing my Ramadan Diary. I'm going to fast for this whole first week, incha'allah, and add at least 15 minutes onto my fast each morning until I hit the point of starting my fast at 5am like the rest of Batouri. I've decided that this is a week of no morning coffee, no work-outs, and probably also a lot of moto-taxis--I want to avoid anything that's going to dehydrate me any more than necessary.

Today, I started my fast at 7:30am...a cheater's start, but I don't want to start too hard at the beginning and end my week in the hospital with dehydration. After two eggs and a full 1.5L of water at 7am, my fast was on. We were lucky that it poured rain this morning so that the heat and sun weren't too overwhelming. Still, I am exhausted--food poisoning just before Ramadan was definitely not ideal, and I can already tell that I'm going to be doing some serious napping all week long. I now understand why last year the pace of work during Ramadan was SO SLOW and why every shop-keeper seemed to be constantly asleep: fasting is fatiguing. Tonight, though, this exhaustion is going to be sent away in style, as my post-mates and I are breaking the fast with our friend, Ali, at a restaurant in town (Melissa is also fasting for the week with me.)

So, how are people responding to the bizarre news that the two American girls are fasting? Reactions have been one of two extremes--shock and excitement or confusion. Luckily, the Muslims that are fasting all think it's cool that we want to share the experience and plenty of our Muslim friends are inviting us over to break the fast at the end of the day. The Christians, however, are all confused. I've now committed the most heinous crime in Cameroon about 5 different times today: I've turned down both food and drink. The response of "I'm fasting for this week of Ramadan" is doing nothing but furthering the confusion. I'm hoping that'll get easier as the week moves along.

Day 2:
Well, there's two days down already. I added another 30 minutes onto the fast today, and I'm a little shocked: today was significantly easier than the day before. Thank God. The fatigue, however, is going to be a killer. Town is already slowing down dramatically as all of the Muslims (and us weirdos who're doing Ramadan for the fun of it) adjust into energy-conservation mode. Pretty sure by the last day, it may be a miracle if I peel myself out of my bed.

Today, I broke the fast in a more "traditional" fashion, ie: bouillie and beignets. Bouillie is a traditional breakfast food throughout Cameroon--it's a thick, white drink made of flour, water, and flavoring (sugar, cinnamin, rice, lemon, vanilla, etc.) Holy moly, I love me some bouillie. And beignets dipped in bouillie? Wow.

I broke the fast with my friend Muhammad at his house, and his wife made the most fabulous spread. As Melissa and I slurped down the food in fast-forward, the family prayed as the littlest one called out the response of "allahu akbar" ("God is Great") and the father called out the prayer. There's a joke around here that it's a great thing that prayer Islam-style is so involved (standing, bending, prostrating, repeat x5+) because otherwise, nobody would be doing any activity during Ramadan and everyone would be gaining massive amounts of weight. And, it's probably true: that much food eaten at rapid speed in such a short period of time is creating a gigantic rock in my stomach. Bloat, bloat, bloat, bloat. Luckily, this week, there's all the time in the world to sit, digest, and reflect.

Day 3:
If this week is indicative of anything, it's that I might just have a future in competitive eating. Always good to have a back-up life plan, right?

Ignoring the fatigue, the week is getting easier and easier--I never actually thought that I'd be able to make it through the full week, but I've already shaved a full hour off my start time (clearly the competitive spirit remains alive and well.) We've been lucky that it's stayed cool and hasn't been too sunny this week; apparently when Ramadan falls during dry season, a couple of people pass away per year from dehydration. All thing's said, for me, so far it's been a much needed week of re-centering and self-focus. With only four months remaining, I'll take whatever moments I can get to try and process this life here.

Tonight, Mike, Melissa, and I went out for chicken to celebrate the fact that our fish-farming project has begun and is moving along quickly! Since regaining our original technician and re-working our budget a bit at the beginning of the week, we've finally got a plan that we all feel comfortable in. The land has already been cleared, and we're currently in the process of digging the ponds. ("we're" in this case excluding myself, although as soon as Ramadan's over I plan to head over and start actually lending a hand in the work.) But, more on this project in a later blog. Anyhow, as soon as dawn hit today, I ripped open a yogurt, downed a banana, and drowned myself in water...followed by a Coke, chicken, rice, and pineapple. Competitive food eating: I'm winning at it.

Day 4:
The pronounciation of the French word for sleepiness is exactly the same as the Fulfulde word for the fast. The pronounciation for the French words to fast and to annoy/irritate are also the same. Coincidences? Definitely not.

The crying baby in the neighbor's side of the duplex. The fact that the new family of the neighbor STILL haven't bothered to introduce themselves after moving in last month. The fact that the neighbors start blasting their TV around 6:15 every morning. The rain that blocked us from going out and cooking on the rocks to break the fast. The fridge light that won't turn off. The sink that won't stop dripping. Having to cook without taste testing along the way. It seems like there's nothing that isn't bothering me today, but in a way that shows me that I may have too completely adopted the mentality of "ca va aller."

The post-mates, myself, and our friend Zack were supposed to go out to the rocks tonight and break the fast at sunset over a gigantic vat of chili, but, alas, there was rain. Instead, we cooked and ate at my house instead after a long and distacting game of Canasta. Since Zack's family is currently out of town, for the time being, we're all the family each other has, which is weirdly comforting. Between the gigantic bowl of American chili, a card game I grew up on, and the family I've pieced together for myself here,the day ended on a really nice note. As tiring and frustrating as this week has been, I'm glad that I decided to do it: how better to learn to appreciate the hand I've been dealt here?

Days 5 and 6:
Sundays are always slow here in Batouri, so I've skipped day 5 of the Rama-Diary. Nothing terribly interesting happened, and no fabulous new revelations have passed. I do have a significantly cleaner yard to show for it, though, and a whole other pineapple to work through that I bought at the market, so the day was far from a waste.

Here, on the sixth day, I've added a total of two hours onto my fast since the start of the week. To the great shock of anyone who's ever had the pleasure of having to deal with me in the morning, I got up and was functional(ish) without coffee at 5am. Even I am shocked by that one. It seems that I've lost a whole piece of my identity in this country: that of being an incurable, raging anti-morning person. I'm willing to admit that that's probably a positive change.

Ramadan's gotten easier and easier, and the word has spread through town that I've been trying--a number of people have come up to wish me good luck on the fast. Turns out, much to my surprise, village kongossa (gossip) CAN work in positive ways; I've been strengthened in my conviction to finish out the week with every person who stops to ask me about my experiences with Ramadan and why I've chosen to do the fast.Even though I am looking forward to being done, I've learned a lot about Ramadan and how to survive the fast, but I think I've also gained a lot of willpower this week. Even more so, through the exhaustion, I've been able to keep a close eye on the fish farming operation (which is now one week old!!!) Still, I plan to invoke two different clauses from the Qur'an for why I won't finish out Ramadan: the physical labor of farming while I'm in Batouri, and the clause regarding travels for while I'm out and about.

Day 7/Afterward:
I did it. It's done. Today is what would have been day 8 and I'm curled on my couch with a big mug of tea, something I've missed furiously this whole past week. I didn't have to set an alarm for 4:30 today, and when I did finally wake up, I didn't have to force myself to drink unthinkable amounts of water. I won't need to take motos everywhere, and I won't need to avoid that god-awful lunch hour in town. Still, it's been a great experience...and I think I might just do a few more days at the end for Fete de Ramadan. A girl'll do crazy things in the name of integration.

Things ended on the perfect note: dinner at my friend Abdoulaye's house. Abdoulaye's been possibly the most supportive person through the fast, and he's also the most intense person I know when it comes to fasting: he doesn't eat breakfast in the morning so that there's only one meal a day, and he still plays sports on weekends. I am NOT on that level, and I am perfectly okay with that. Over a delicious meal of bouillie and beignets, a cucumber salad, a potato-and-egg dish, and watermelon, we broke the fast. We watched women's soccer and talked about projects we've got planned. Is there a more perfect way to end a day than that? I don't think so.

Now that the fast is over, I've got a few big plans for before I leave on vacation to visit my friend Charla in the Adamaoua region. 1) Exterminate the mouse who seems to be taking refuge in my house. 2) Get a boubou (traditional West African clothing) made for Fete de Ramadan 3) Resolve some financial issues with the fish farming project 4) Try and convince the electrical company to give me my 4+-month late bill. All big things.

Take care, all!

Misunderstanding

29 June 2013

The level of misunderstanding in this country is astounding. Some of it's harmless, but much of it has led to hatred, distrust, and inequity. To some degree, it's understandable--most people don't finish their education here, and the major source of information in this country is the village kongossa (gossip.) Still though, much of this misunderstanding is willful and propogated as a way to justify wrongdoings or to keep a level of power/privilege, like choosing to believe that if a woman has taken off her shoes, she's consented to sex. I'm beginning to wonder if I've lost my ability to be shocked by what people have to say, but I'm hoping that the world won't take that as a challenge to throw some new offensive curveball my way. Not so sure what I'm talking about? All of the statements below are things I've heard come out of my mouth in serious conversation, and I know a number of them are comments that volunteers across the country have to reiterate frequently.
"Michael Jackson is really dead, his death certificate wasn't faked, and he didn't move to an island secretly to avoid the paparazzi."
"Mangoes don't give you Malaria."
"Women CAN play soccer."
"No, really. There's poverty in America, too. It's not just people in Africa that suffer. People die of hunger in America, too, just not as often."
"AIDS wasn't an illness genetically engineered in America and sent over in condoms as a method of population control in Africa."
"Rape is still rape even if you aren't wearing shoes."
"President Obama may be black, but he is an American."
"Americans don't love to kill people, and there are a lot of Americans that don't love war."
"There are Muslims in American. There are Christians in America. Not everyone is religion-less."
"A 13 year-old female is still a child, not a woman."
In my last blog entry, I mentioned that I was about to head out to the West region to help another volunteer with her girls' camp. Well, that came and went. We trained 20 girls age 13-17 to serve as peer educators in their communities on healthy relationships, communication, puberty, and sexual health topics. For a week, we listened to every worry and misdirected rumor these girls had heard. Like American summer camps, the girls complained about cleaning latrines and limited cell-phone/electricity usage, counselors didn't get to sleep because the girls were chatting all night long, and the week concluded with girls presenting sketches that they'd created themselves. Unlike America, though, we ran out of water because girls were showering 3-4 times a day and the counselors were grumpily awakened at 5am to girls energetically running around the bunks to do each others hair and to find a place to privately shower outdoors (we had to restrict the shower facility after the girls trashed it with muddy shoes and clogged the drain.) All that said, it was amazing to see the growth in the girls--they left more confident in themselves as well as in their ability to stand up for their beliefs and rights. As for me, I left believing a little more strongly that Cameroon had a chance of development since parent after grandparent after administrator expressed their appreciation for training the girls, their desire to see the project continue, and their hope that the girls will positively use the information in their own lives.

It was in that climate that I came home to a friend of mine telling me that he was pursuing not just one 13 year-old girl, but two 13 year-old girls for marriage, one of whom would be ripped out of her family in Nigeria. This particular individual has a child older than the girls he's seeking for marriage. This desire to marry a child can't be blamed on social status or on education--he's a speaker at one of the local mosques, runs a fairly profitable business, has a university degree, and speaks 3 of the world's most predominant languages (English, Arabic, and French) as well as a number of local and regional languages. If there's anything more disheartening than this, I never want to hear it.

I'm trying to remind myself that change is coming and that more and more people are chosing marriages based on love and mutual consideration. Although it's been slow to hit West and Central Africa, feminism is coming and it will be a force to be reckoned with if the girls from the camp are any sign of the future. Normally in French I'd end that statement with "incha'allah" or "si Dieu permit" (God willing/If God permits, respectively,) but this isn't a question of God: this is a clear issue of human and social rights. There should be no question about God's will, government's role in creating a better world for women, or man's role in evening out the playing field.

Weighty subject? Yes. Important? Absolutely.

Lighter Notes:

Grant money is in and the work is commencing! We got back our original technician (Ebba Oundi) who I'd worked with last year on the soy and moringa field and now the two technicians will be splitting up the work and combining their expertise. I'm now more confident that this project will finish on time and with less drama (our other technician, Franklin, is in love with my post-mate.) There will be photos soon of the project as we get work going! Let the hole digging, brick making, and HIV teaching begin!!!

President Obama donated $7 BILLION DOLLARS to develop better electrical networks in Sub-Saharan Africa. Needless to say, this is huge. Villages that rely on generators may finally have access to actual electricity. Power outages will be less frequent: students will have better chance at success because they can study even if power's out, patients being treated in hospitals will be more likely to survive,etc. Positive opinions of America are SKYROCKETING as a result of this donation.

I met a Cameroonian on a bus recently who works for a religious group that deals with handicapped populations. He's passing me his personal research, gave me new resources to help me figure out better ways to intervene with the kids, and gave me the numbers of a couple of groups in Yaounde that I'd been trying to figure out how to contact.

I got to see a couple of close volunteer-friends recently and make some CRAZY GOOD American(ish) meals! Broccoli Alfredo? Yes please. And, found an awesome bakery in the country capital with real sandwiches!

My pantry back in Batouri is officially restocked with American goodies that are impossible to find in my region: peanut butter, Nutella, brown sugar, ground ginger. Life is good.

My fridge no longer closes without being tied shut, and it appears my ceiling has sprung a huge leak. But, at least there haven't been any unwanted animal visitors recently!

Ramadan should be starting this coming Monday or Tuesday. Check back soon for details about my adventures in trying to do a week of the fast! For anyone who's details about Ramadan are a little unclear: a required month of fasting for healthy individuals (no water/food from sun-up to sun-down) to purify and show devotion to God, ends in a day-long party of meal after meal after meal (here it's called Fete de Ramadan.)

Take care, everyone!

Bats, Blogs, Burns, and Byes

Behind every blog post I attempt to write is about 12 failed attempts. This entry alone is the third serious attempt to make a blog post happen. I start writing, and then power goes out for so long that the entry isn't relevant. I start writing, and then I get a phone call and need to run off to a meeting. I finish writing, and then I realize that the entry doesn't have a point, isn't interesting, or that I have a significantly better idea of what somebody might maybe want to read. I start writing, and I get bored and walk away. Now you all know the truth: I'm not just a bad blogger, but an undedicated one.

While I was trying to think about what I wanted to write, I looked at the blog's statistics--y'all are a sick bunch: the most popular entries have all been the ones with negative titles. What that tells me is that A) I have written more depressing blog entries than I realized (I love this country, I promise!) and B) I should probably start writing positive blogs with mis-leading titles like "Murderer on Main Street Kills 87 HIV+ Children Suffering from Dysentary!" in hopes of getting people to read it. Actually, scratch all of that, here's a better solution: tell me what you want to read about for the last five months of my service. What burning questions do you have about Batouri, about Cameroonian culture, how to deal with the electricity company when they stop giving you bills for four months? What's the one subject you feel I've left out consistently?
With that said, let's move right along....

If you're looking for action and adventure in this blog post, then look no further! Things that have happened this month in Batouri:

• 35% of the market burned down, making for a loss in over 2.000.000FCFA (about $4.000) in merchandise and cash that people had stored in their stands for "safe keeping" (few people believe in the reliability of banks in Cameroon since so many have failed Great Depression-style.) No progress has been made at rebuilding the market, so right now it's like a scavenger hunt to try and find your favorite market mommas. It's believed that the fire was caused by someone who failed to put out the fire they'd made to cook beans on for dinner. The fire began around 3am, and was stymied by a huge rainstorm that incidentally also flooded my living room. When I passed the market 12 hours later, there were still flames and smoke. Needless to say, Batouri does not have a fire department or fire insurance.
• I had a fruit bat in my house! His name was Matt. Sadly, he was bludgeoned to death by a particularly vengeful neighbor bearing my broom. Rest in peace, little buddy, you were a good two-day pet. As for the Green Mambas, no new ones recently! My new gardener has tamed the rainforest in my front yard, and I'm no longer the gossip of the neighborhood. Halleluiah.
• My friend's sheep had babies! They're adorable. Have I spent afternoons chasing them around the center of town attempting to hold them? Maybe.

Two weeks ago two friends of mine from training came out to visit, which was incredible! We went out to the Sacred Rocks with a picnic of tacos and boxed wine, and stayed out a few hours to stargaze. If you've ever heard stories about the night skies in Africa: they're not exaggerations. The skies look like they go on forever, stars look close enough to touch, and the shooting stars almost look like the might just crash into your little finger. So bizarre! Thanks again for the cookies, magazines, and visits, friends!!!!

I'm headed out to the West to help a volunteer with her girls' camp in her village this coming week. After four years of camp counseling girls in America, I'm really excited to see the differences in how these kids respond to being away from their families for a week. One thing is for certain: there won't be children at this camp sobbing about being forced to use a latrine or the limited access to electricity.  Or, maybe I'll be eating my words this time on Monday. Details to come. By the time I get back, our money should be arrived to start the work on our pisciculture project. But, in the mean time, I am sustained with the news that 65% of the primary school students in the handicapped youth association passed their grades in school and are moving up! In a society where it's considered totally normal that everyone fails at least one grade in their life, this is a huge success for us!!

In addition to fish farming, we've been doing some work to plan a series of HIV education murals throughout the region. Stop #1 for the project is Batouri. My post-mates and I have been scoping out locations, costs, and ways to transmit the messages. Some volunteers are bringing us old brushes and materials from America so that we'll be able to do the projects at as little cost as possible (meaning paint, tint, and some soap.) I'll keep you posted as we get the details arranged!

As a country, we're starting to say our Good-Byes to the training group before mine--mind-blowing! The two girls who met us in Bertoua during our site visits and showed us around are both on their ways out over the next month. Congratulations on finishing out your services, Michelle, Justine, and Andy!!!!

I think that's it for the moment. Keep me posted on what you want to hear, and I'll do my best to make it happen!

Silures and Kanga and Tiliapia, Oh My!

13 May 2013

About two years ago, I received that glorious, long-awaited package containing my invitation to join the Peace Corps. The memory is still vivid: I was sitting on the couch next to my Mom and our dog, and with hands shaking, I ripped open the envelope that I was convinced would hold the answers to all of my questions (it didn't.) My nerves were shooting through the roof as I searched the documents endlessly trying to figure out where I was being sent. I overlooked the big, bolded word CAMEROON on the first page, so thanks, Mama dearest, for pointing that out to me and putting all that anxiety to an end. Knowing very little about the country, the job I was being sent to do, or whether I was physically capable to handle all that this post would require of me, I unhesitatingly sent back an email that evening to confirm my acceptance as a member of the first ever class of Youth Development Coordinators in Cameroon.

Throughout the summer, I completed the barrage of things that Peace Corps asked us to do: personal statements, resumes, the Yellow Fever vaccine, and what-have-you. I read volunteer blogs, searched YouTube for videos that volunteers posted about their life in Cameroon, went shopping for all those materials that volunteers assured us were "crucial" for survival (they weren't,) and tied up my loose ends in America, confidently knowing that I'd be able to pick up my life exactly where I'd left it.

In retrospect, that was naive.

I remember hearing before I left that I was going to change more personally than I'd be able to change my community, but it never occured to me how much my "old bubble" would change while I was gone: deaths, terrorist attacks, engagements, graduations. When I eventually return, I won't be returning to the same America that I left. Likewise, I won't be returned to my family or friends in the same condition as I left. The longer I'm here, the more thankful I am to have such a strong base of support on all sides of the planet to support me through all of the dramas and successes that comprise a Peace Corps service. Packages, emails, letters, phone calls, monetary donations to projects: people have reached out consistently when I've needed it the most. There are no words for how appreciative I am, sappy as that might be.

There are also no words for my excitement at finding out our fish farming project has been officially selected for funding! After months of struggling and re-writing because of deadlines and agricultural seasons, my post-mate finally called me with the happy news. Mike and Melissa, I'm so proud of us!!!!!! Together, we're going to go share the good news to the association that we work with. The word "overjoyed" doesn't even come close to describing my emotions. What's a girl do to celebrate? Eat boiled green beans, onions, and green pepper while writing a blog post by candle-light. Yep, I'm celebrating pretty hard. I might even eat that leftover half of a pineapple from earlier....

Anyhow, the project will be hosted by the Amicale des Handicapes de la Kadey a Batouri, a group that works to elevate the status of handicapped/HIV+/orphaned/at-risk youth and adults through access to education, vocational training, and health-care. The group is lead by a woman named Pauline, who is truly one of the most dynamic and persistent people I've ever met; while she can be a high-stress personality, I've become a more patient, aware person because of knowing her. My work with Pauline started out as just teaching the kids at a weekly youth group, but our work together grown ever since.

Starting July, work to create our 3 fish ponds for Tilapia, Kanga, Silures, and Clariases will begin, and the work will be hefty. We hope to have all of the construction completed and the fish installed by November when Mike and I leave. Likewise, we'll be training youth on reproductive and sexual health topics in order to help them avoid contracting HIV, other sexually transmitted infections, and early pregnancy. Both youth and adults will be trained on fish farming (or, pisciculture, if you want the technical word) as an opportunity to gain a vocational skill.

There are a lot of things that have happened during my service that I'm proud of, and I've never regretted coming for a second. But, if this project actually succeeds, then I will be able to leave Batouri knowing that it's a better place than when I first arrived and not just superficially: whole families will be able to better nourish their children, more youth will have access to the hospital-care that they need, more preventative medications will be available to these families, and more children will be able to be enrolled in schools. The potential implications of this are far-reaching. Amazing, right?

I'll be sure to post more details soon as they become available. In the mean-time, I hope all of you go out and celebrate Batouri cluster's success with a large cup of ice cream (or large bowl of soup, if you're being health-conscious.)

Take care, everyone!

PS. Guess who found their second-ever Green Mamba in their house last week? Apparently the Cameroonian solution is to pour used diesel around the house and around the trees where they're frequently found. My friend gave me some diesel this morning, so keep your fingers crossed that this works for me!

Peace

Despite, or perhaps because of, the instability of Cameroon's neighboring countries, Cameroonians are quick to remind you that this is a country of peace. Considering all of the drama in Nigeria, Chad, the Congo, and the CAR, it's incredibly telling just how zealous people here safeguard the notion of peace. The Cameroonian president, Paul Biya, is known country-wide as a man of peace, and rhetoric pretty much dictates that at least once in every conversation you need to make the statement that "Le Cameroun est la paix," or some derivitive thereof. I've found myself in debates frequently about whether justice and righteousness are more important than peace; as it turns out, American's value peace in a whole different way than any Cameroonian I've ever met.

Cameroonians value peace as an essential quality for life, and become quickly embarrassed if the peace is compromised for any reason. Corruption is acceptable because it helps to keep the peace and stability of the country, the region, and the town. Although religion is an important part of the cultural values, religious values that promote justice are suppressed if they might be considered a justification to break the peace--whether either Islamic, Christian, or Animist. It's for this reason that a lot of times Cameroonians have a difficult time understanding American foreign policy and current events. Cameroonians are personally offended by the violence in America perpetrated by citizens; more than once, I've been told that they could never live in a country like America where people are free to create violence as they choose. All that said, though, despite our differences in beliefs, there's a feeling of mutuality and togetherness in the losses that America's suffered this year between the bombing at the Boston Marathon, school shootings, and the movie theater shooting. As Americans, we're at a critical decision-making time of how we want to respond and the kind of relationships we want to foster for the future.

It's easy for stereotypes and prejudice to fester after moments like this. The overarching goal of terrorism is to create fear to further the hatred, so it's important that rather than closing ourselves off from "the outside" and "the others," we keep reaching out and seeking to understand other people and places. In this country, most of my best friends are Muslim. We've watched the news together and worried about the future of the people and places affected by terrorism and discussed how religion is sometimes manipulated by people into a force for hatred. People have called me frequently to check and make sure all of my friends and family members are safe and to apologize for the fates that have befallen the American people. The Boston Marathon Terrorist Attack is a tragedy, but rather than shutting ourselves off from everone else, we need to try and open ourselves up to learning about others and creating understanding. There are bad Muslims. There are bad Christians. There are bad atheists. More importantly, though, there are incredible people belonging to each major faith group. We are all together in this fight, because whether we want to believe it or not, this is a fight that affects everyone worldwide.

That may all be seen as a soapbox, or as being out of line. Or, maybe not. Either way, though, let's move right along onto something a little less controversial.

Word's starting to hit us here that the new class of Peace Corps Cameroon Youth Development Volunteers has already started to receive their invitations. If you're one of them, congratulations!! I hope that as you read through the past (and future!) entries of this blog, you have a better understanding of the ups and downs of service; it won't always be easy, but it will always be worth it. Ideally, you should really, really, REALLY want to take over my post, as it's definitely one of the best places in the country. Or, something like that. The rest of y'all, well, thanks for staying with me this long and putting up with my relatively frequent soapboxes. I officially have dates for my Close of Service Conference: there is no denying that the end is coming.

Up until then, though, I'm staying busy both integration-wise and work-wise. I've been eating mounds and mounds and mounds and mounds of Couscous de Manioc and Koko (a green, peanut-based sauce with grass-like leaves in it.) Sound appetizing? Probably not, but, man, there's a good reason that people in Batouri tell you that once you've eaten Koko, you'll never want to leave again. I also finally made a seriously fabulous female friend one morning while buying eggs at the corner boutique. And, I finally made it out to visit the gold mines, which was a weird experience. I'll try and right a separate blog focusing just on that, but it was mind-blowing seeing the degree of environmental degradation and work conditions that people endure for such a small amount of gold. Work-wise, I'm staying busy with youth group, grant applications, and doing work on Women's Rights advocacy to prevent violence against women.

Right now, I'm in Yaounde. We just finished up our Youth Development Steering Committee meeting, and I'm headed up to Ngaoundere (the capital of the Adamaoua region) tomorrow night for our second Mid-Service training...which apparently is intended less to be informative than to be a giant publicity grabber. Tonight, I'm headed out to a concert being hosted by an NGO that works on Malaria awareness, prevention, and treatment.

Take care and stay safe!

Celerating Women's Day with some of my favorite little ladies!

Awareness seminar on Women's Rights and Violence Against Women in Ndelele, East Cameroon.

 

Rainforest in Kambele, a village just outside of where I live.

 

Scratch that: gold-mining in Kambele. Well, hello, there, Malaria, global warming, and environmental destruction. Everyday, these mines find more than 1.000 dollars worth of gold flakes per day, although there are also diamonds and sapphires in the area.

Michelle, one of the little girls I work with. She'd been in the hospital about 2 weeks ago following a fall in a latrine, but now she's back to being her ultra-sassy self.

The Suns and the Rains

5 March 2013

Suddenly, I’m finding myself asking the all-important question: where did all my time go? Looking at what’s left, I’m feeling pressed for time and like I have a lot to cram in before this coming December. There’s a lot to do, a lot to learn, a lot to experience, and not much time left to go. A number of “lasts” and mile markers of PC Cameroon service have happened recently: Mid-Service Training, my last Christmas/New Year’s/Valentine’s Day in country, my last Youth Day celebration, and my last In-Service Training. I’m about to celebrate my last Women’s Day in Cameroon and to celebrate my last Easter as a Peace Corps Volunteer. I can count the months until my Close of Service Conference on one hand, and I can count the months of service left on less than 10 fingers. If there was ever a time that basic math was fun, it’s this time right here: 27 months-17.5 months complete=9.5 months. My mind is officially blown by how little time remains—I remember being amazed when I first lasted in Cameroon nine months!

Looking back, there are a lot of bizarre things that strike me about Peace Corps; from learning tips on how to prevent having snakes in my house to being taught how to best butcher a chicken, there’s never been a day when there hasn’t been some kind of survival skill to learn. These skills are useful, yes, and (sometimes) have the ability of being useful in the States, but the most striking thing I’ve come to learn is that less technology you have and the less developed your community is, the more vulnerable you are to “the elements” and the less control you have over your daily life. This seemed kind of exciting the first go-around, but now that this actually feels like my life and not some crazy-long tourist adventure, the excitement has given out to frustration and feelings of restriction.

Weather here works in extremes and theoretically in cycles: long dry season, short wet season, short dry season, long wet season. Every season has its own weird reality and particularities, and they're getting more extreme as climate change takes hold--it's predicted that the average temperature in my community will rise another 5-10 degrees farhenheit; no one here debates the existence of climate change, and it's so engrained that even the most uneducated people can point to specific examples of how the climate/weather has changed in the community (dates of the rains, rise of temperature, decrease of the rains, etc.)

The precipitation amounts change each season, and so do the temperatures, but so do food availability, workload, attendance at school/work/meetings, road conditions, and health risks. There aren’t any weather reports here, so you need to be intuitive about what’s likely to happen, and also about what else might still happen. Ultimately, you should prepare for the worst, hope for the best, and be willing to go with whatever ends up happening. No person can control weather, but there are things that make it easier to manage: consistent access to transportation, infrastructure, weather reports, consistent phone reception, safe housing structures, insurance. Clearly, those things don’t tend to exist in a lot of the places where Peace Corps tends to work. From where I stand in Cameroon, the lack of shelter from weather has created and reinforced a belief that God makes all decisions for humankind and that NOTHING can be changed or can deviate from that path. If there’s any mentality that impedes and stunts development: it’s that one.

Earlier this week, I was returning from training the new Youth Development Volunteers at their In-Service Training. We all thought we were still in long dry season, turns out we’re not: a freak storm hit while we were traveling, and NONE of us were dressed for the weather or prepared for the consequences. I did everything I could to prepare, mainly meaning that I called someone in Batouri to figure out how the rain was there to decide whether I should travel. It turns out I made the wrong choice: our car pin-balled across the road for hours because of the weather. A little girl’s carsickness made her vomit everywhere, we lost control of the car and ran over a piglet, got stuck in mud for 45-minutes while a group of bribed villagers helped our driver get our car un-stuck, and everyone struggled to make it back into the car because everybody was dressed in the requisite dry-season-travel sandals. Welcome to rainy season travel in Eastern Cameroon, world.

What’s a girl to do, though, when you’re out with friends and a freak storm hits? There aren’t any motorcycles to give you a ride home, and even if you are, the road is dirt and the driving conditions get bad quickly. I don’t live in the center of town, so when these freak storms, I have to retreat to one of my post-mate’s houses; this week, it ended in an entirely unexpected sleepover at my post-mate’s house since there was no way to get back to my own. It's not uncommon for people to miss work, doctor's appointments, meetings, etc. because of these freak storms. Nobody has much control over their daily lives in rainy season.

There’s a whole code of rainy season survival tips, and you learn them fast once you start living it. Once a storm hits, it’s important to immediately put out your buckets and bowls because you don’t know if water will go out and for how long. Today, I collected about 30L of rain water to prepare…just in case. I still have running water at the moment, but I also still remember the time that water was out in town for two weeks and I had a visitor. You get really good at ready the signs of whether a storm is going to hit: stillness followed by a strong wind wind, a dark sky, leaves on the trees turning upwards. You learn to avoid walking underneath mango trees because mangoes frequently drop to the ground, and they aren’t exactly a light fruit.

You don’t just feel the effects of weather in big ways. You grow to learn that if it starts raining and you have a meeting starting in 30 minutes, don’t bother showing up, because they’re not going to either since transportation is null. After a few days, you perfect your technique of waking up that shopkeeper who’s taking the requisite “it’s painfully hot in dry season” nap. Certain clothes can’t be worn in certain seasons, and because hand-washing is really the only system here, you learn which techniques work best on the mud versus the dirt. You learn that cement holds heat, and that during dry season, it’s much better to cook outdoors over a fire if you have the possibility. You also learn which seasons have the most cockroaches, which for me is...right now. Eff. You move around less from 10-4p, and you grow to plan your daily activities based on the availability of shade and water.

This is my last short wet season. Am I going to get nostalgic for these freak storms and get paranoid about putting out buckets? Most likely. Still, it’s going to be magical not to have to put life on hold for days while everyone waits for the ground to dry out.